Poppi

in the mystical and bellicose Casentino

The Name

The place name Poppi appears to be traceable to a period of linguistic history before the 8th century BC, called the Tyrrhenian or common Mediterranean stage.

According to this hypothesis, one of the most accredited today, the name comes from poplo, i.e. mound, hill, relief.

History

• 1169: a contract drawn up in castro de Puppio in loco Casentino between two soldiers and the abbot of Strumi is the earliest document that mentions the castle of Poppi.

• 1196: Guido Bevisangue, the first of the Guidi counts of Poppi, is named “count of all Tuscany” by the emperor Henry VI. As a result of the progressive strengthening of the Guidi dynasty, Poppi becomes the political and administrative capital of the Casentino area, which it maintains even under the rule of the Florentine Republic, for which many of the Guidi counts hold political and military posts.

• 1440: with the treason of Count Francesco, who sides with the troops of the Duke of Milan against the Florentines, the Guidi’s rule in the Casentino comes to an end. The Florentine army lays siege to Poppi, and Count Francesco must capitulate. The Guidi are exiled from the Casentino, and Poppi falls under the direct rule of Florence.

• 1498-99: Poppi is the epicenter of the war between Florence and Venice.

• 1630: the population is decimated by the plague.

• 1860: up until the Unification of Italy, the Poppi area continues to follow the events of Florence, first as the Republic, followed by the Signoria and finally the Grand Duchy of Tuscany.

The Castle of the Guidi Counts, the Porticos and the Buildings

Poppi is located at the center of the Casentino, one of the most beautiful valleys in Tuscany.

The medieval village is a rare walled town, with the Castello dei Conti Guidi at its highest point, dominating over all.

The Castle was designed by the celebrated Di Cambio family of architects, and was a “prototype” for Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. Built in the 12th century, its façade has two-mullioned windows, with a high tower rising above it at the center. It is surrounded by a defense wall with Guelf embattlements and a broad moat. Thanks to frequent restorations over the centuries, the castle is in excellent condition. It houses a library, the Biblioteca Rilliana, which has hundreds of medieval manuscripts and precious incunabula.

Another important element is the Conti Chapel, with a cycle of 14th-century frescoes attributed to Taddeo Gaddi, a pupil of Giotto.

Going down from the castle one comes to the Rectory of Santi Marco e Lorenzo (18th cent.), which holds works by Ligozzi and Morandini. Across from it, on the main square, there is a rare example of Tuscan Late Baroque architecture, the Oratory of the Madonna del Morbo (17th cent.), a hexagonal building with a tiled dome ringed by an exquisite arcade. Inside there is a fine Madonna and Child by Filippino Lippi.

Continuing down the main street flanked by porticos – a rare architectural element in Tuscany – one comes to the Badia di San Fedele (11th cent.), with many paintings hanging on the bare stone walls, including a Giottesque crucifix, the magnificent 13th-century panel of the Madonna and Child, and paintings by Jacopo Ligozzi, Portelli, Davanzati, Francesco Morandini and Solosmeo.

Last is the monastery of the Augustinians (16th cent.), which has splendid Della Robbia terracottas.

A pleasant conclusion to the visit is a walk along the circuit of medieval walls, from which there are lovely views of the Tuscany countryside.

Local Products

The famous “panno lana” cloth, originally from Stia but found all over the Casentino, woven using traditional methods and sold at a shop in Poppi.

“Casentino” cloth, first worn by monks and mountain folk, is now made in a variety of hues, in particular the traditional colors of orange and green.

Local dishes

The tortello di patate differs from ravioli only in its filling: instead of spinach and ricotta, it is stuffed with the incomparable “PDO del Casentino” potatoes.