Trevi

the queen of the olive trees

The Name

Trevi is a very ancient town but the origin of its name is uncertain.

Cited by Pliny as Trebiae, the name may refer to the goddess Diana, called Trivia, or it may conceal an even more archaic meaning of Osco-Umbrian origin alluding to a specific place.

History

• 1st century BC: in the Roman era Trebiae is comprised of a fortified area on the hill and the civitas in the plain, site of the present-day Pietrarossa. The draining of the valley and the construction of the Flaminian Way encourage development in this area, and charming country villas begin to spring up along the Clitunno river.

• 6th century AD: the civitas declines as the valley turns into a marsh, with the relocation of the population onto the summit of the hill.

• 11th century: the episcopal see, founded in the 4th century by Saint Emiliano, is suppressed. Trevi, which was ruled by a steward under the Longobards, later becomes a free commune, hemmed in between Spoleto and Foligno.

• 1214: the Duke of Spoleto conquers and sacks the city, which is soon liberated and rebuilt by the inhabitants. Trevi is then dominated by various lords; the seigniory of the Trinci of Foligno is particularly ruinous, and continues up to 1438.

• 14th-16th centuries: this is a prosperous period for the village, which becomes an important commercial center thanks to its prized olive oil; in fact Trevi comes to be called “the land-locked port”. There are many indications of the economic and cultural importance attained by the village: in 1460 one of the first Italian pawn agencies is founded here, from 1465 to 1468 the swamps are drained, in 1470 the fourth print shop in Italy is opened in Trevi, and in 1509 one of the country’s first pipe organs is constructed in San Francesco.

• 1784: Pope Pius VI grants Trevi the title of “city”.

Silence in the Spiral of Stone

The conical and curled configuration of this village is unique and unmistakable. Conforming itself to the contours of the hill on which it stands, it has filled past travellers with wonder, the poet Leopardi among them.

Constructed in concentric circles, Trevi resembles a spiral-shaped shell which preserves intact its ancient heart of stone, tiles, wood, and earth tones. The center is Piazza Mazzini, in a corner of which stands the 13th-century town hall with its municipal tower. From here, passing in front of Palazzo Valenti (1545), we arrive at the former convent of San Francesco (13th century), now transformed into a museum complex.

The complex includes the Picture Gallery, the Town Museum, the Museum of the Olive Tree Civilization and the Art Collection. The church of San Francesco dates to 1288 and was modified in Gothic style between 1354-58. Its portal is beautiful, while the interior has a single nave and three apses with cross vaults, the central of which is polygonal. The church houses a Giotto-style crucifix painted on wood (begun in the 14th century), executed by the unknown Master of the Crucifix of Trevi. The right-hand apse contains the funeral stele of the hermit Beato Ventura, who died in 1310. Once outside the church we can proceed along Via Fantosati to the medieval Gate of the Cieco, from which we go up along Via Dogali to the Cathedral of Sant’Emiliano on the top of the hill, erected between the 12th and 13th centuries but completely restored in the 1800s.

Inside, the altar of the Sacrament is particularly impressive, decorated by Rocco Tommaso in 1522. Returning to the Gate of the Cieco, we turn left towards Piazza Garibaldi to reach the “promenade” of Viale Ciuffelli, shaded by ancient trees for about one kilometer, which links the center to the Franciscan convent of San Martino (end of 15th century) and its chapel frescoed by Spagna.

Descending southwards from Trevi instead towards the Flaminian Way, we encounter the Renaissance-style Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Lagrime, with its lovely portal carved with bas-reliefs. The interior, in a Latin-cross plan, preserves the sepulchral monuments of the Valenti family, while Perugino’s last work, the Adoration of the Magi with the Saints Peter and Paul (1521), is located in the second altar on the right. Once again going down along Via Dogali, we pass under the Arch of Mastaccio, an ancient gate in the Roman and early medieval walls, with a pointed opening and double lancet window above. The houses on the two sides of the street all date to the Middle Ages.

There are many edifices built between the 15th and 18th centuries which lend this village its unique atmosphere. Finally, the Clitunno Theatre from the second half of the 19th century, with its curtain by Bruschi, is worth visiting.

Local Products

Trevi’s extra-virgin olive oil is superb, one of the best in Italy.

Another delicacy from the area is the savoury black celery of Trevi, with its soft pulpy heart.

Finally, there is the Trebbiano with its unmistakable aroma, a wine of limited production which may take its name from Trevi.

Local dishes

Among the village’s specialties one may enjoy a plate of mixed bruschetta (toasted bread) with Trevi’s prized olive oil, tomatoes or asparagus or olive paté, stranghozzi with truffle and the thinly sliced duck breast served in Trevi’s restaurants.